Discount holiday shopping

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It may be the center of Silicon Valley, but during the holidays, downtown San Jose remembers its small-town past. In the 1950s, local businessman Don Lima drew a crowd just by setting up a Christmas display in front of his funeral home. That simple gesture has blossomed into Christmas in the Park (free; at Plaza de Cesar Chavez, along Market St. between San Carlos and San Fernando Streets), a kitschy wonderland that draws more than 400,000 spectators every December.

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Beginning December 5, an animated Victorian village pumps out enough cheer to make Scrooge smile, while a large Nutcracker display stops shoppers. The sight of more than 400 decorated trees, some festooned with paper angels and foil stars made by kindergartners and Girl Scouts, lets you recall life before pagers and the Internet. On December 5, a tree-lighting ceremony at 5:30 brightens the night. Two days later at 8:30 A.M., the San Jose Holiday Parade makes things even livelier.

After taking in these festive displays, round out a day by exploring nearby First Street's cultural corridor, where restaurants, theaters, shops, and museums share a downtown so compact that it's easy to tour on foot. Museum stores and galleries offer special wares and discount prices during the city's Downtown for the Holidays shopping event, so you can tackle your gift list while checking out an exhibit or two.

At the San Jose Museum of Art (closed Mon; free; 110 S. Market; 408/271-6840), view more work from California artists, then pick up sleek glassware and handmade jewelry from the shop. If you find yourself inspired by the contemporary Hawaiian quilts at the San Jose Museum of Quilts & Textiles (closed Mon; $5; 110 Paseo de San Antonio, 408/971-0323), buy a book on quilts or an embroidered jacket to give as a gift.

Another unusual gift source is Curtain Call (call for hours; 101 Paseo de San Antonio; www.sjrep.com or 408/367-7200), the store at the San Jose Repertory Theatre, where marionettes and pintsize playhouses let you stage your own production.

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When it's time for some fresh air, grab your skates and head for Down-town Ice (Nov 21-Jan 19; from $7, $3 to rent skates; on Market at Viola Ave.). Just one block south of Christmas in the Park, you can glide on ice under the stars. Finally, get a glass of champagne at the Wine Galleria (377 S. First St.; 408/298-1386), and toast the sophisticated side of a once-small town.

First Street facts

WHEN: Christmas in the Park is Dec 5-Jan 1.

CONTACT: For information on free parking and shops participating in Downtown for the Holidays, contact the San Jose Downtown Association (www.sjdowntown.com or 408/279-1775); for other information, contact Christmas in the Park (www.christmasinthepark.com or 408/995-6635).