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Just do it without Nike - includes related article Women on the Move - Apparel Merchandising special supplement



McDonald's golden arches are ubiquitous icons that have the ability to capture the appetites of hungry citizens throughout the world. And in the world of sports marketing, Nike's swoosh has similar clout, providing many retailers with a powerful tool to capture consumer's sport shoe and activewear dollars.

Unfortunately, the leverage of many high visibility sports logos are unavailable to most mass merchants. Nevertheless, these retailers must also create powerful activewear presentations to feed America's fitness frenzy and boost the bottom line. The question is, how can they tap into this lucrative market when they can't sell brands like Nike?


"A mass market activewear department is different than other retailers," says Jim Sparks, senior vice president, gmm at Braintree, Mass.-based Bradlees. "It's about not having the Nike and Reebok stuff that everybody else has. You probably have to work harder with this stuff."

Other retailers agree.

"We feel the best approach to activewear is to pick up available brands, whether it be Wilson, Spalding or Rawlings. We have all of those brands in our stores," answers Mike Gallen, vice president, dmm of Abilene, Kan.-based 220-unit Duckwall-Alco Stores. "The trick is to make sure that your merchandise mix is inspired by the current top brand looks," he adds.

"For instance, if you're going to have a Rawlings program or a Wilson program," Gallen explains, "you need to buy mesh because that has been real hot in the Nike line." And even the mass brands allow retailers to extend their margins over generic active merchandise. "Sometimes the customer can't afford Nike but still wants to look that way. However, our customers are willing to pay for an alternative brands," Gallen says. He ranks Wilson as the store's No. 1 active brand, Rawlings as No. 2 and Spalding at No. 3.

Warner Bros. has also joined the contest in the mass market activewear business by marketing its WB Sport line of shoes and clothing. The collection, which so far has enjoyed its greatest success in footwear, is meant to be a stand-alone sports label endorsed by major athletes -- including Shaquille O'Neal.

"For us, the idea was to create the first affordable sports lifestyle brand at the mass market level with world-class caliber athletes endorsing and supporting the product," explains Jeff Orridge, director of sports licensing of Warner Bros. Consumer Products and a key player in the development of the company's WB Sport brand.

The company is planning a big push for the line for fall 1998 and has developed the brand across numerous categories.

"It had never been done before with a full product line for the mass market," Orridge adds. "We decided to go into the mass market because we already had those retailer relationship from the success of the Looney Tunes brand. We also felt that it was important to stand for affordable, value-conscious, superior product in the mass market."

The importance of developing comprehensive active mixes at the discount level is underscored by the results of several surveys and a topic of ongoing study.

One recent report from SGMA found that in 1996, Americans spent approximately $17.22 billion on activewear. Another SGMA study, conducted by the NPD American Shoppers Panel, found that from May 1997 through August of the same year, people spent approximately $12.8 billion compared to $12.2 billion during the same period in 1996.

Overall buying trends, according to a spokeswomen for the Sporting Goods Manufacturers Associations, are going up. "I've spoken to a number of smaller manufacturers who are predicting more than a 40 percent growth rate for 1998," she said. "Then again, I've also spoken to larger, more predominant companies that are calling for a more realistic growth rate between 3 to 5 percent."

Currently, some of the hottest activewear looks for fall 1998 include dark colors, mesh fabrications, anything with sport striping a la Adidas and fleece in menswear. In womenswear, stretch workout gear, brilliant colorations and fleece are all expected to be strong performing items next season. Price points in most mass active departments begin at around $6 for basic fleece components.

Also for fall 1998, retailers and manufacturers are touting the benefits of technical activewear, making apparel trade shows seem more like computer fairs than places to buy apparel. Technical advances for 1998 include anti-bacterial fabrics, for all categories, that fight body odor. Also, fabrications designed to wick moisture away from the body are turning out to be huge purchase items for the coming year.

But one retailer notes a problem with the new batch of tech-items. "Most of the manufacturers making these items are not doing a good job of promoting and marketing it," says Brenda Gleen, a buyer for Columbus, Ohio-based Hart's. "We think that our customers are having a hard time figuring out exactly what the stuff does and how much better it can be than what they're used to."

Glenn notes, however, that if manufacturers step up their promotional and marketing efforts for technical activewear, the category shows great potential for the 115-unit chain.

Gallen reports his company has seen strong results in activewar from merchandise that resembles Adidas triple-track striping on active pants and shorts. "We have very small stores, about 20,000 sg. ft. Basically, if you include pro and college, we probably give about 20 percent of our floor space to activewear."

Another key to building the mix is developing a strong private label programs, a tactic exemplified by big box retailers such as Kmart.

The Troy, Mich.-based chain, which currently boasts about 2,135 stores, combines recognizable brands with a strong offering of proprietary brands. A walk-through of the men's and women's active departments of Kmart's 34th Street unit in New York reveals a highly organized mix of private label merchandise from its Kathy Ireland brand for women, Basic Editions and labels such as Spalding and Wilson in both men's and women's.

The store, one of the busiest in the chain, also prominently features active brands such as Hanes and Fruit of the Loom as well as Pooh from Disney and Looney Toons from Warner Bros. "We get a lot of foot traffic here," notes a store manager. "The department is clean and neat when the store opens and is ripped apart by noon." She adds that store associates have a tough time keeping up with the crowds.

More and more retailers are finding that a strong assortments has many components. Novelty items, such as Pooh and Warner Bros., and important basic activewear are key building blocks in a strong discount activewear department.

"Activewear is a huge category," says Mark Tate, vice president, retail sales at Alexander City, Ala.-based Jerzees. "We know that basic fleece drives a lot of traffic and volume. We also know that color and surface textures drive a lot business, both impulse and planned. Newness and styling in fashion silhouettes keep things fresh. And I think it's a combination of all of those that call the attention of a consumer to the fact that a given retailer is a destination for this type of merchandise."

The executive notes that it's important for discounters to continue building and maintaining their activewear departments because of what he calls the continued casual movement. "We know from our research that they spend far more time in their activewear/homewear than their businesswear because they feel comfortable in it. Consumers have an emotional attachment to what they wear at home -- to their favorite sweat shirt or sweat pants or whatever they feel comfortable in."

Simple no-nonsense items can go a long way. And though they may come from less identifiable brands than from Nike, Fila or Adidas, they play a huge role in flushing out a strong activewear mix. "They're a big help," notes Sparks.

However, Sparks says brands do not represent the majority of Bradlees active sales. "But at least they give you a little bit of authenticity to your mix," he says. "You've simply got to have a couple on the floor."Rawlings is currently the dominant label at Bradlee's. "But we're looking at Spalding again as they are getting repositioned," Sparks adds.

Going forward, he feels that polyester fleece represents a strong active business for fall 1998. "It has been very good this year, and I see it continuing through next."

Novelty activewear plays a major role in Bradlees overall apparel business, "whether it's a Winnie the Pooh sweat shirt in ladies and kids' or licensed team apparel," Sparks says, adding that activewear is probably about 20 percent of the overall men's and women's mix.

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