Hong kong discount hotel rooms

Budget Travel

Hong Kong thrives under Chinese rule

By ARTHUR FROMMER King Features Syndicate

Sunday, June 23, 2002

July 1 will mark five years since Great Britain, in a mournful gesture symbolizing the end of its empire, returned Hong Kong to the Chinese government.

It seems only yesterday that the world anxiously awaited the change: Would the Chinese, infamous for unpredictability, take over the handsome island city with tanks and soldiers? Would the millions of immigrants that make up the city's population suddenly steal away? What would happen to this glittering, greedy, towering city in the South China Sea?

As it turned out, not much. Eternally hitched to the star that is the Asian market, Hong Kong, now part of a Special Administrative Region of China, has continued to thrive, albeit with ever- decreasing rights to democratic elections and free speech. In early June, the city held its annual Victoria Park vigil in honor of the anniversary of the massacre at Tiananmen Square -- but with thinner crowds than ever and amid warnings from Hong Kong's Chinese masters that next year the protest will be banned.

While the mainland city of Shanghai is eclipsing hurly-burly Hong Kong as China's most dazzling cash cow, there are still signs that, barring an unforeseen disaster, the former British holding will continue to be a powerhouse for years to come. In fact, as you read this, the city's densely packed Central district is being gradually overshadowed by what will be Hong Kong's tallest skyscraper, the 88- story Two International Finance Centre, to be completed next year.

Expensive for Asia

Befitting its steadfast mercenary style, Hong Kong is more expensive than the Asian norm. The U.S. dollar is permanently linked to the Hong Kong currency, eliminating the chance that tourists will enjoy windfalls from improved exchange rates. And some of the priciest real estate on Earth makes daily costs there far above standard Asian prices: Rooms at major hotels are geared to business travelers and can cost well over $300 a night.

Hong Kong, as an emblem of Asia's dynamic self-possession, is still worth a visit, and her multicultural wonders can be yours for a song if you know where to stay. Happily, the city happens to host what might be the most spectacular budget hotel in the world: The Salisbury YMCA, (852) 2268-7000 or www.ymcahk.org.hk, is located across Victoria Harbour on the leading edge of Kowloon (where you'll find all those fabulous views of the city).

Forget what you expect of YMCA accommodations; the Salisbury is as plush as any luxury hotel (three phones in each room, daily paper, fruit basket, room service, two restaurants, a pool, beauty salon, etc.), and many rooms have unobstructed panoramic views to rival the most expensive competition. Over the summer, when the Cantonese climate gets sticky, rooms range from $78 to $112 a night -- an extraordinary steal. The legendary Peninsula, right next door, charges some eight times as much for the same view.

Prepared on the spot

For food, it's easy to plunge into the city's many markets (the most popular is probably the "Night Market" on Temple St. west of the Jordan metro station), where the short-order chefs at "cooked food" stalls will prepare whatever you point to, and prices are a lean $3 to $6 per heaping portion.

Unlike in American restaurants, meats are always fresh; the chicken you eat was probably clucking around the kitchen when you ordered it. The city is also chockablock with "dai pai dong," or food stalls, which are humble storefront eateries, many run by folks who don't speak a lick of English but know how to whip up a scrumptious and inexpensive meal.

Other bargains are built right into the city. Hong Kong's civilized subway puts any American system to shame: The MTR (www.mtrcorp.com) goes everywhere you want for $1.40 or less, is cool and quiet, and -- take note, America -- is wired throughout for cellphone reception. When it's time to leave town, you can even check your luggage at two locations in the city and board a direct train to the airport for about $10.

Outside of the markets, bargain shopping is not what it used to be. Catering to wealthy financiers, Hong Kong is stocked with expensive outlets like Burberry, Gucci and Fendi.

Electronics are often priced at U.S. levels, and increasingly, you have to be careful what you buy, since manufacturers are creating compatibility conflicts to force consumers to purchase items in their home countries. At particular issue are DVDs, which were once harvested by the dozens by bargain-hungry Americans, but which now, like videotapes, are usually coded to malfunction on your home player.

VCDs, low-resolution movies you play on your home computer, are an exception; you can buy the latest releases, with Chinese subtitles, to play at home for $1.90 to $6.50 at the discount stalls.

Copyright 2002 Journal Sentinel Inc. Note: This notice does not apply to those news items already copyrighted and received through wire services or other media
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